Polytechnic Institute of Lisbon
Featured Beyond Vision : Processes of Artistic Expression through Blind-draping in Fashion Design View Digital Media
Paper Presentation in a Themed Session Lidya Chrisfens
This paper explores the experimentation in the embodied mind experience within atmospheric space and senses between one's felt body, mind, and space within a dress through the novel approach in fashion technique pedagogy- blind-draping. The investigation opens up a line of inquiry exploring embodied action and cognition through memories and emotion as intangible conceptual understanding, translating the mind's phenomenological occurrence to one's bodily experience. The experimentation covers the process that led to the theoretical findings of self-consciousness: pre-reflective self-consciousness and bodily self-awareness through the preception of embodied action. The embodied activity has led to the physical body substantiating cognition, which plays a significant causal or physical role beyond the brain in cognitive processing. Without sight, the awareness is informed by the tactility and proprioception of the body (hands) movement, reflecting the experience. The phenomenal state of experience in this occurrence is the notion of anti-physicalism: it was not related to anything physical-functional. Through the artistic expression in blind-draping, the activity also opens up the creative explorations in conceptual space and the philosophical understanding of the externalisation of the internalised emotions during the process. The process of interiorisation, attempting to locate where emotions take places: from the phenomenological notion of the mind as the original space of feelings to the phenomena of the mind. The theoretical processes informed the importance of the embodied mind, which is substantial to the design output as the creative process. The methodology allows designers to explore creative expression through the other senses beyond the vision.
Validation of Competences in Curricular Internship of Fashion Designers: The Case of the Portuguese Clothing Industry with Its Own Brand
Paper Presentation in a Themed Session Madalena Rocha Pereira
In the construction and reformulation of the Master in Fashion Design at the University of Beira Interior, the annual curricular unit of Internship/Project/Dissertation was created, to allow students to choose one of the three options in the 2nd year. Others choose to develop a project or dissertation. The different options allow you to define career paths and professions. A few students have opted for a 6-month curricular internship to validate the skills and knowledge acquired during their training in a real context. The Textile and Clothing industry in Portugal has a significant representation in terms of production in its history and in 2021 exported 5.3 billion euros. The aim of this investigation is to analyze the case study of the validation of different skills and knowledge applied in the industry with and without X brand, in a premium segment throughout the internship period. In a sector that is constantly changing and developing, it is increasingly important to have experience and the ability to adapt to different situations, acquiring multi-skills. The necessary and acquired skills are analyzed and compared to contribute to the improvement of training that has as one of the paths the professionalization in the textile and clothing industry with its own brand or in services. It is concluded that there is a set of skills that should be addressed in an academic environment in a more practical way and with real problems and concrete examples in partnership with the industry in the projects developed and proposed, among others.
This paper considers what styles, types of garments and garments details are more important for consumers that co-create or want to co-create fashion products. A qualitative methodology was first used focused on the contextualization of the theme through the reading and analysis of books and scientific articles in the scope of co-creation in fashion design and also of fashion products. A quantitative methodology was also used focused on the analysis of data from a questionnaire to a sample of 404 participants, from Portugal. The results from this paper will help co-creation fashion brands entering the market and established ones, to have more concise information of what consumers are looking for to co-create in the Portuguese market.
Are Fashion Brands Accessible? A Perspective of Visually Impaired Individuals Towards Fashion Brands and Products in Portugal View Digital Media
This study aims to understand the perspective and knowledge of visually impaired (VI) individuals towards fashion brands from a national perspective focusing stores and regarding mainstream and inclusive products. The methodology is based on qualitative and exploratory approaches. The technique for data collection relied on in-depth interviews and counted with a sample of 25 VI individuals with distinct diagnoses. The interviews were conducted face-to-face, through telephone and videoconference. For data analysis, NVivo software was used. This study brought a new and original context to the scientific fashion field for Portuguese designers and brands. It can be assumed that this study is an asset for designers and fashion brands interested in having a more accessible and inclusive approach to their business strategies and products.